This is no joke. It used to be a piece of advice, or more likely a myth: pee in your new hiking boots so the leather softens up. So next time someone comes out with that, don't do it. Besides, with today's materials and construction, breaking in hiking boots isn't the ordeal it used to be. Still, it takes patience.
Pour corn into your boots and add water. Heat the tight spots with a hairdryer. Stuff a peeled potato into the toe. Put bags of water in your boots and leave them in the freezer overnight. We've already covered peeing.
We don't approve of any of it. Because most of these "old wives' tales" go directly against the boot makers' own recommendations on caring for the materials. Shortcuts are tempting, but sadly they often do more harm than good. The only sensible way is patience.
Because leather, seams, glued joints and the membrane need protecting from exactly these kinds of extremes. Moisture (especially combined with frost), high heat or harsh chemicals – these are the things that can make the sole come unglued along with the rubber rands, crack and dry out the leather, ruin the seams or damage the membrane. Amen!
First things first: breaking in new boots isn't the horror it used to be. In some low-cut trail shoes and hiking shoes you can set off pretty much straight away. They're flexible, well cushioned and often fit right out of the box. Why not.
But the heavier and stiffer the boots (leather hiking boots, mountaineering boots), the more time you need to spend breaking them in. Unless you're a masochist who enjoys burst blisters and bloody socks. A stiff, sturdy construction simply takes longer to adapt to the shape of your feet. So it's a good idea to start breaking them in 2–3 weeks before a proper hike.
Slowly adapting the boots to your own feet. That's what it's all about. Not to a potato or a frozen bag of water. The warmth of your feet and the moisture they produce as you walk make the material softer and more pliable. That's the main way it permanently adapts to the shape of your feet. But of course – if the boots don't fit from the start, weeks of breaking in won't help.
Wear your boots gradually. Let your feet get used to them. Start at home in the living room. Then take them out into the garden. Go for a two-hour walk on easy terrain. Add distance, elevation and difficulty. And only then head out on a proper hike. Yes – it's a pain. But heels rubbed raw and the prospect of another two hours' trudge down to the valley sound even worse.
Another thing that helps break boots in is walking in the rain. Moisture from outside softens the leather slightly, making it easier to mould to your foot. So if it's drizzling – great. Or take a walk in dewy grass. Just make sure you let the boots dry out properly afterwards (at room temperature, of course).
Right from the start, keep an eye on the position of the tongue – it has to sit in the middle. If it slides to the side during the first few wears, it will never go back to the right position later. You can also try different lacing and tensioning techniques – to lock the heel better, take pressure off the instep or free up room for your toes, and so reduce the risk of blisters.
Choose socks that are made for mountain hiking. A good fit, so they don't bunch up. Made of a material that keeps your feet dry. With cushioning that reduces friction in the critical spots and helps prevent blisters. And break your boots in wearing those socks – so they take the right shape.
You can also get anatomical insoles. They reduce friction and prevent pressure sores. And you'll do well not to lend your boots to anyone. They'd start adapting to someone else's foot and wouldn't be the same any more. That's why borrowed boots never feel as good as your own.
That means moisturising them with cream so the skin doesn't crack. Rough hard skin and calluses are best smoothed with a pumice stone. And of course trim your toenails (straight across or slightly curved) so they don't bang against the toe of the boot. It hurts – especially going downhill – and long nails can damage the boot lining.
If your boots are too narrow, you can use boot stretchers to widen the material. If, on the other hand, they're too roomy, you can add a thin pad under the insole (sometimes included in the box), a heel wedge or anatomical trekking insoles.
If even that gets you nowhere, it's time to admit that the mistake was made right at the start – when choosing the boots. They just don't fit you and probably never will. And rather than wrecking your feet, it may be better to get rid of them.
Soldiers did it, and so did earlier generations of hikers. Supposedly a popular tip. And yes – moisture and warmth are what help leather adapt. But the smell of urine isn't strictly necessary for that. Nor are the minerals urine contains, which are harmful to leather. They can make it dry out and turn brittle.
Let's sum up. Shortcuts don't work. Internet "old wives' tales" often go against the makers' own recommendations. They damage the materials and construction and shorten your boots' life. And the warranty doesn't cover human stupidity.
What works is a prudent, patient breaking-in. Step by step – from small doses up to the big hike. Wear the right socks. Try different ways of lacing and tightening. And just to be safe, pack some blister plasters in your rucksack.
Good luck!
